{"id":16043,"date":"2014-08-07T11:53:05","date_gmt":"2014-08-07T09:53:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carnets-de-traverse.com\/blog\/?p=16043"},"modified":"2016-04-06T13:04:41","modified_gmt":"2016-04-06T11:04:41","slug":"lumieres-sacrees-de-monument-valley","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.carnets-de-traverse.com\/blog\/lumieres-sacrees-de-monument-valley","title":{"rendered":"Les lumi\u00e8res sacr\u00e9es de Monument Valley"},"content":{"rendered":"
Un h\u00f4tel pour dormir au c\u0153ur de Monument Valley, en fin d’article<\/a><\/div>\n

Six cent cinquante kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 l\u2019est de Las Vegas s\u2019\u00e9tend Monument Valley sur le plateau du Colorado.
\nCes apr\u00e8s-midis de novembre, gr\u00e8s et schistes s\u2019embrasent et conf\u00e8rent aux derni\u00e8res heures du jour un spectacle grandiose. Je me rem\u00e9more ma g\u00e9ologie d\u2019\u00e9colier : schistes Moenkopi, Organ Rock, Shinarumps, gr\u00e8s de Chelly. De puissantes bourrasques soul\u00e8vent une poussi\u00e8re rouge coupante qui s\u2019insinue partout. Le soleil est fort, la lumi\u00e8re rasante. Partout, les ombres port\u00e9es d\u00e9forment ce relief unique au monde.<\/h2>\n

L\u2019interminable Highway 160 d\u00e9plie ses miles rectilignes. La p\u00e9riode est propice aux temp\u00eates \u00a0\u2014 buissons et sables forment des bouff\u00e9es \u00e9ph\u00e9m\u00e8res que mon GMC traverse sans crainte. Les premiers promontoires rocheux se d\u00e9voilent de parts et d\u2019autres de la route \u2014 je n\u2019estime pas leur hauteur : cent m\u00e8tres, quatre cent m\u00e8tres, mille m\u00e8tres ?<\/p>\n

La R\u00e9serve Navajo s\u2019ouvre \u00e0 moi par des b\u00e2timents sans style, quelques commerces moribonds, un check-point anecdotique. 12 dollars pour acc\u00e9der au territoire sacr\u00e9 d\u2019un peuple mythique.<\/p>\n

16h00. L\u2019endroit est pour ainsi dire d\u00e9sert. Une piste infecte permet de d\u00e9valer vers la vall\u00e9e des rocs. Chaos de roches, de terre, de lumi\u00e8re et d\u2019ombres. 5mph, la voiture ne supportera pas plus, je roule scrupuleusement. Paysage hors norme, lumi\u00e8res changeantes, atmosph\u00e8re entre gr\u00e2ce et d\u00e9sastre. La voiture sur le bas-c\u00f4t\u00e9, je m\u2019enfonce dans les dunes aux cama\u00efeux subtiles.<\/p>\n

Tout autour de moi, l\u2018espace est vivant, comme \u00e9nerv\u00e9 par ces ruades de vent et ce sable volatile qui fait mal. Sols durs et craquants sous mon poids, v\u00e9g\u00e9taux bris\u00e9s, j\u2019avance lentement vers ces autels de 100 \u00e9tages. Cath\u00e9drales de gr\u00e8s, monolithes mill\u00e9naires, \u00e9difices naturels d\u00e9sagr\u00e9g\u00e9s, mon leica ne d\u00e9clenche pas aussi facilement qu\u2019ailleurs.<\/p>\n

Je peine \u00e0 saisir les bons cadrages. Aucune diagonale visible. Les verticales sont monumentales, les horizontales lointaines. La lumi\u00e8re de toute fin d\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi n\u2019arrange rien.<\/p>\n

A l\u2019oppos\u00e9 du plan\u00e9taire Grand Canyon, Monument Valley est un \u00e9crin \u00e0 \u00e9chelle humaine. Il me faut quelques heures pour construire des images, jouer avec les dunes, danser avec les ombres.<\/p>\n

Je me sens \u00e9tonnement bien \u00e0 ma place d\u2019homme, \u00e0 genou devant les lumi\u00e8res sacr\u00e9es de Monument Valley.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument<\/p>\n

\"Monument
\n<\/a><\/p>\n

Un\u00a0h\u00f4tel, pour dormir au c\u0153ur de la vall\u00e9e<\/span><\/h2>\n

Ou plut\u00f4t un lodge. Qui ressemblerait \u00e0 un motel \u2014 si toutefois il avait \u00e9t\u00e9 au bord d’une route.<\/p>\n

Le Goulding’s lodge est nich\u00e9\u00a0dans le creux d’une falaise rouge et offre \u00e0 tous une superbe vue sur la myst\u00e9rieuse vall\u00e9e… L’int\u00e9rieur est standard et confortable (type Holiday Inn). La vue depuis le balcon (et globalement depuis tout le site) est tout simplement magique. On a l’impression de dormir DANS\u00a0Monument Valley.<\/p>\n

Cette nuit-l\u00e0, comment ne pas r\u00eaver que l’on chevauche avec John Wayne dans\u00a0La Conqu\u00eate de l’Ouest<\/em>\u00a0ou\u00a0La Chevauch\u00e9e fantastique<\/em> ?…<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Hotel

Le Goulding’s Lodge<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Hotel

Le balcon… (dans\u00a0beaucoup de chambres,\u00a0on a cette vue depuis le lit !)<\/p><\/div>\n

\u00c0 partir de 120$ la double.\u00a0Le genre d’adresse qu’il vaut mieux r\u00e9server. Un restaurant (tr\u00e8s) moyen sert les repas, on s’en contente d’une part gr\u00e2ce \u00e0\u00a0la vue, d’autre part parce qu’on n’a beaucoup d’autres choix par ici (!). Possibilit\u00e9 de camper ou de louer un chalet.<\/p>\n

Retrouvez ici\u00a0tous mes articles sur les \u00c9tats-Unis<\/span><\/a>\u00a0et l\u00e0,\u00a0mon\u00a0article-fleuve : Road trip aux USA,<\/span> mode d’emploi\u00a0!<\/span><\/a>\u00a0avec tous mes conseils pour organiser son road trip, conduire aux \u00c9tats-Unis, pr\u00e9voir son\u00a0budget, louer une\u00a0voiture, visiter les parcs nationaux,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Monument Valley. Mythique, et pourtant je n’ai pas \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9\u00e7u. Photos de voyage et un h\u00f4tel pour dormir dans le d\u00e9cor : bonne adresse…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":16076,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[115],"tags":[21,134,56],"class_list":["post-16043","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-etats-unis","tag-hebergement","tag-leica-m9","tag-road-trip"],"yoast_head":"\nLumi\u00e8res sacr\u00e9es de Monument Valley - Blog voyage et photo<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Road trip USA : \u00e9tape \u00e0 Monument Valley. Mythique. Je n'ai pas \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9\u00e7u. 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